Gordon and Fabiana holding up the first official bag of MegaBee ever made

Where did MegaBee get its start?


It began as a challenge
and revolutionized the industry.


"We need a new product - one that actually works"
"What about something that could be fed as a patty or a liquid?"

In 2000, MegaBee’s founder, Dr. Gordon Wardell, was approached by a group of beekeepers at the American Beekeeping Federation meetings and given the challenge of making a better food for bees. Ideally one that was versatile enough to be fed as a patty or mixed directly into sugar syrup. With a cooperative research agreement in place at the USDA ARS Carl Hayden bee research center in Tucson, they set out to create the perfect nutritional supplement for bees. It had everything the bees needed…but they wouldn’t touch it.

Turning to his team, Gordy said, “They have wings, we can't force them to eat something...so let’s ask the bees what they want.” This changed everything. His team ran palatability trials on dozens of different ingredients selecting ones they liked and refining the list, eventually selecting the best performing products and plugging them into a formula that balanced the delicate nutritional ratios honey bees need.

And MegaBee was born. The first high protein all-in-one product of its kind.

Since its launch in 2007, MegaBee has set the standard for premium honey bee nutrition. It has spurred an influx of premium pollen supplements around the globe as the beekeeping community increasingly implements supplemental feeding into hive management plans to deal with difficulties brought on by climate change, pesticides and parasites.

Three bees lined up licking a MegaBee patty

We let the bees
build it for us.

  • Highly preferred

    Every ingredient was put through extensive
    palatability trials to ensure the bees love them,
    no tricking them with fake flavors or fillers.

  • Rigorously tested

    MegaBee has been independently tested in
    some of the harshest environments in the world.

  • Powerful results

    Want to get the most out of your hives?
    Then you gotta see the results for yourself.

PESTS, PARASITES, PATHOGENS & POOR PASTURE...OH MY!

With seemingly everything taking precious time off the bee's life,
our goal at MegaBee is to give them a fighting chance.

Beekeeping is changing, we can all see it. Queens burn out faster than they used to. Pesticide use has skyrocketed in the last 15 years. Viruses, hive beetles, varroa...sometimes just keeping your hives alive feels like a win. But with MegaBee we can do more than survive, we can get those hives to THRIVE.

Our product's success lies in its ability to turn back the clock and transform the inner workings of the hive. The premise is this: What if a product could stimulate royal jelly production in nurse bees beyond what the brood needs? What would they do with the leftovers? Spolier alert: they share it! As that royal jelly gets passed around the hive it makes its way to the adult bees, field foragers that can no longer process traditional protein sources (like bee bread) and rely on carbohydrate sources until they burn out and join the "big hive in the sky."

When these field foragers start consuming royal jelly, protein levels in their bodies skyrocket and their lifespans are extended. Becuase of this house bees do not need to become field foragers quite yet. This massive trickle-down effect happens and bees can stay in their roles longer. The ratio of nurse bees to brood increases, ensuring healthy future generations. Longer living bees means more overlap between generations, leading to more bees in the box. More bees in the box = more honey, better pollination grades, fewer deadouts, etc.

Putting a little bit of time back on a single bee's life has massive implications for overcoming the challenges we see in today's beekeeping landscape. Our reserach, along with independent studies from some of the brightest minds in the industry shows this. Curious? Check out the reserach.

Mix, feed, split, repeat.

Easy mixing directions for small batches means making MegaBee couldn't be simpler! Need to feed a lot of hives?

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For bulk batches of patties:

Mix equal parts heavy syrup & MegaBee powder + add 4% of the total batch weight in oil

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For larger batches of liquid:

Mix up to 1LB of MegaBee for every 2 gallons of syrup

*ensure all clumps are broken up, syrup is true 2:1 heavy syrup, and mix WELL!

MegaBee's quick mixing directions for pollen patties and mixing it directly into sugar syrup

Free Shipping

Pay for a quality product, not shipping. All US orders over $50 ship for FREE (ex. AK/HI).

The Happiest Hives

We have never met a hive that doesn't love MegaBee. But if for any reason it isn't what you want, no worries! 100% satisfaction guarnteed.

Here to Help

We mean it. Whether you have 1 hive or 10,000 we are always here to answer questions, offer suggestions, or customize feeding plans to meet your needs. Reach out to us!

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Frequently Asked Questions

We are proud to say that MegaBee is 100% plant based and contains no animal products of any kind. Some products use some pretty crazy ingredients: eggs, spray-dried chicken blood, whey/casein mixtures…the list goes on. But bees are vegetarians and we think they should stay that way. In developing MegaBee we asked the bees which plant products they liked best, then our scientists carefully balanced those ingredients to mimic the best pollen sources for bees.
That is entirely up to you. Supplemental feeding can be done whenever your hive needs a boost. Our beekeepers feed for all sorts of reasons: spring build-up, when installing new packages, after making splits, during a weak pollen flow, when stressed or dealing with disease, after mite treatments, and building up for (or keeping them alive during) winter to name a few.
MegaBee is carefully formulated to ensure when mixed it won’t mold or spoil like other products. As for the powder itself, we hear from beekeepers all the time about how they found a bag deep in their pantry/garage/honey house. Rest assured. We ran trials on MegaBee that showed zero degradation for up to four years. Our advice is to keep it in a cool dry place (sealed as best as possible because other insects love it too) and it will be just fine. Worst case - after too much time it will start to lose a bit of its natural scent bees love but should feed just fine.
How much to feed depends on the strength of the hive. General rule of thumb is to give your bees what they can consume in 7-10 days. Leave patties on longer than that and they can dry out, whereas if you only give them a little patty and they devour it in 3-4 days then you know they need more per feeding.

In a nuc, new package, or struggling 1-box hive we would typically suggest starting out with half a patty (0.5LB). In an average sized hive, start with a 1LB patty and see how they do. In a very strong hive you might need 2-3 patties per hive…it all depends on their strength.
The short answer – for best results (to really get the hive built up) research suggests two good brood cycles = 6 weeks. We call it the “6-week rule.”

Think about this one. You go out and put beautiful fresh patties on your hives. The bees recognize them, start eating them and putting all that magical nutrition to work. The queen starts laying, nurse bees start producing tons of royal jelly and flood those immature cells with it. The brood loves it. They start giving off more and more brood pheromone – “feed me” becomes “FEEED ME.”

…and then you don’t put another patty on. The nutrition is used up and there isn't enough coming in naturally. What are they forced to do? When they recognize they have more immatures than they can feed they end up pulling out the brood.

The worst thing you can do is get your hive going strong and then shut off the tap. Keeping patties on for 4-6 weeks ensures plenty of time for brood to develop, turn into nurses, and then raise yet another crop of young healthy bees. That influx of young healthy workers jumpstarts your hive's growth and gives the bees what they need to turn things around in the hive.
Not to worry…you can’t mess them up that bad! If they come out a bit dry add some extra syrup until they reach the preferred consistency. If they are too runny cover the mixture and give it some time to set up – MegaBee will continue to absorb moisture. If after that time it is still too soft then add some extra powder.

When mixing for our hives, we like it a bit on the soft side, sort of resembling a firm pancake mixture. Some beekeepers like to make it to the consistency of cookie dough and form little balls before pressing between wax paper. The choice is yours…but trust us – once you get your mix down you’ll never buy pre-made patties again.
It sounds like you might have cooked your sugar syrup. When making heavy syrup, our suggestion is to heat water and then use that to dissolve your sugar. Boiling the sugar itself changes the chemical structure and you’ll be on your way to making hard candy.

Side note: natural sugar is sucrose based and can be very drying. If you want a softer patty, you can always try using a bit of a fructose-based sugar in your mix to help balance out the sucrose.
No, bees will not store MegaBee. This might strike you as a negative at first but you don’t want them to. When giving talks we usually say to think of honey bees like squirrels. They are focused on packing away as much as possible, usually to their detriment, and are not very good at deciding when to tap into their reserves. When you feed a product like MegaBee you want the bees to put it to use straight away and start growing, right?
It really depends on the season and what you are trying to achieve. Our research shows the best way to get your hive to build quickly is to a patty as close to the nurse bees and brood cluster as possible since that will stimulate brood production the fastest. In single deeps or nucs this right on top of the frames is perfect. In a double deep setup, split the two boxes and put the patty right in between.

If you struggle with hive beetles or the weather is warm and want to try something different, try mixing it directly into your syrup feeders or jars. MegaBee is one of the only products on the market that can be fed like this because of how fine we reduce the particle size down. Only tip with liquid feeding is to make sure you use a VERY heavy syrup (2:1 – 66brix or higher).

Candy boards are another great alternative! Many beekeepers use them in the winter to provide the bees with extra stores, when shipping bees long distances, or when unable to get back to hives for long periods of time. Candy can be made either into molds that are < 3/8” or pour directly into a hive cover as long as the sides are built up a bit. If it is winter and you don’t want the queen laying just keep the protein content under 5%. In the spring/summer/fall if you want to feed a high-protein candy get it over 5%. Interested in making candy? We have recipes here on the site for candy at 4% and 7%. Reach out to us for more information or look for the instructional videos here on the site (coming soon).
All orders ship via either USPS or UPS depending on which is best for delivery to your address.
Sure, why not! MegaBee is a complete product, meaning it does not need anything extra. Our scientists did all the hard work to make sure it is everything your bees require. But if you have something you swear by and want to try adding it to the patties we say go for it.

Some beekeepers will trap a little pollen during a heavy pollen flow and keep it for mixing into their patties. Studies have shown increased performance with little as 4% pollen added in, making it virtually indistinguishable from 100% pollen. Others will add old honey they want to use up to make patties instead of using heavy syrup. Feel free to try all sorts of things & if you ever have questions about adding a product to the mix and want to ask us, please don’t hesitate to reach out.
Most packages ship within 24 hours of placement (except weekends). You will get an email when it ships that includes tracking, but we would say estimate 3-5 business days. If it stalls somewhere along the way or shows delivered but didn’t arrive drop us a message and we will look into it.
Anything except olive oil. Bees are not huge fans of the taste. Research shows they prefer a neutral oil like corn or canola, but we have heard from beekeepers using others like palm, coconut, or even flaxseed.
You sure can! MegaBee’s unique milling process means it is small enough that it can be mixed directly into your syrup. Directions are on the bag but note: it needs to be HEAVY syrup (2:1 – 66brix or higher). Protein powders like MegaBee are heavy and in 1:1 will settle on the bottom. If you plan to try this out, make sure 1) the syrup is heavy and 2) you REALLY get it mixed in there. For small batches we recommend a 5gal bucket and a paint mixer attachment on your drill. Ensure all the clumps are broken up and if feeding with jars you might need to widen the holes slightly due to the change in viscosity (1/16” on average).
The lawyers say no. MegaBee does use some food grade ingredients and some feed grade, so it is not intended for human consumption…plus you don’t want to start swarming.
Not all pollen is complete, meaning some sources they collect are missing key amino acids bees need. MegaBee contains all 10 essential amino acids in their proper ratios so it can fill in gaps where monofloral sources might be deficient. The other reason, as mentioned in one of the FAQs above, is because bees are a lot like squirrels in a sense. The hive is focused on storing as much as possible, not exponential growth. When you feed MegaBee they consume it straight away while everything they bring back is packed into cells. Just because you see bees bringing back loads of pollen does not mean they are eating it. If your foragers are busy but the nurses are slowing down due to an imbalance in the nutrition, that hive is eventually going to burn out. By allowing them the extra time to stack various pollen sources they end up creating what is generally well-balanced polyfloral bee bread, which can better serve them later in the season.
Best place to put patties is on your hives…so keep feeding! But if you made way too much it keeps great in the freezer. Press all the excess patties into wax paper and stack them in a ziplock in the freezer. When thawed they will feed good as new.
Can you put too much patty on the hive? Yes. Feed them what they can consume in about 7-10 days. But can you feed them for too long and hurt them? No.

Beekeeping is population management. So if you are feeding and growing your hives just be sure to manage their space, flip boxes, adding a box when needed…typical hive management. We once gave a talk and a beekeeper in the back stood up and said, “I will never give that MegaBee stuff to my bees again.” When asked why he said, “because it made my bees swarm.” A groan went through the auditorium…it put too many bees in the box??
Yes, we’ve all been there. There is nothing worse than seeing hive beetles slime up a patty. Couple of suggestions: 1) If you want to feed patties keep them really small, keep the wax paper intact and don’t score them up with a hive tool. If the bee population is really high they will out compete the beetles for the patties. 2) That can sometimes be easier said than done. So if you want to try something else, give MegaBee liquid in jars or making MegaBee candy a try. You can make high protein candy boards and pour them into a hive cover that has been deepened to accommodate it. Beetles don’t like candy since they can’t burrow into it and the bees love them. Recipes are here on the site, or reach out to us for recommendations.
Bees love MegaBee. They chose the ingredients themselves and as a result it is basically their favorite thing. If the hive is healthy they should have no problem consuming MegaBee in any form. If they are not, then much like when your dog won’t eat, it is usually an indication something is wrong in the hive. That is when we start taking a closer look. What do you hear, queenless? What do you smell, AFB/EFB or another disease? Any nosema staining on the outside or signs of virus on the bees (color, wings, etc)? How about the immatures, any eggs or larvae or just capped brood?

Most of the time it is an issue with the queen.

In many commercial operations, teams will put patties on every hive. When they come back and see a hive has not consumed their patty they mark it for closer inspection. In this way, patties can serve as a quick check to assess large numbers of hives and the same rule can be applied for yours.

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